In Venice, not only do the colors change at the end of October, but the city's atmosphere does as well. The crowds are smaller, allowing the city of canals to reveal its true face during this time.
One of the most wonderful feelings in Venice is that there’s no need to hurry. There are no honking cars, no traffic jams, because no cars drive in the city. It was only the sound of the vaporetto’s engine that brought me back to reality as I pondered that in this city, there's no need to rush through the must-see sights. It's close enough that we can return multiple times.
Gondola
I set off for Venice with one thing in mind: not to miss the gondola ride. My longing was contagious, and my partner joined in, immediately starting to haggle with the gondolier parked under the first bridge. We chose a three-quarter-hour route: we glided through narrow canals, passing by Casanova's house, and under the Rialto Bridge, the only crossing over the Grand Canal until 1854. Although we didn’t request it, and perhaps because we were the first passengers of the day, the gondolier serenaded us with a song as an added bonus.
The gondola itself is an incredibly comfortable and safe vehicle. Our children ran back and forth for a few photos, yet we never had to worry about ending up in the water. We could sink into not only the cushioned seats but also the autumn colors of Venice. Above us, the sky alternated between graying and shimmering, with clouds drifting by, constantly revealing new shades in the canal's water and the palaces lining the waterways.
A little history
Venice was built on one of the large island groups of the lagoon in the 5th century AD. The city was founded by Romans fleeing from Lombard invaders, and by the 9th century, it had developed into an independent state led by a doge. The first settlers lived off fishing, salt extraction, and farming. Over a few centuries, the islands became so overcrowded that they were forced to expand into the lagoon. They began filling the land with earth and stone brought from the mainland, and the narrow straits between the islands gradually turned into canals.
Until the 15th century, Venice was the strongest maritime power in Europe, trading with both the East and the West, while also developing its own industries (textiles, lace-making, glass production, shipbuilding). However, due to recurring plagues and fires, the city began to decline. This process was accelerated by the weakening of its trade relations with the East as a result of the Ottoman conquests. Venice finally joined the Kingdom of Italy in 1866.
Squares, alleys – stuccoes, ceilings
After the morning gondola ride, of course, we treated ourselves to an authentic Italian cappuccino. Falling leaves, warm sunshine, and the small historic square that had turned into a playground proved to be a great choice. The heat wasn’t oppressive, the smell from the canals wasn’t bothersome, and in the alleys, we didn’t have to press ourselves against the walls because of tourist groups.
We couldn’t get enough of the walk, as our previous image of Venice was now enriched by beautiful stuccoes, baroque ceilings peeking through open windows, ornate door handles, and melodies filtering through the terraces, adding depth and nuance to the experience.
As we crossed from one island to another on the 400 bridges that connect the 118 islands, our guidebook slowly sank deeper into our bag. We even forgot that the city, built on pinewood piles, is constantly sinking, and there’s still no solution to this serious problem. We felt as though this miracle would last forever.
What we've seen
Although we love the modern collection at the Guggenheim Museum and the 14th–18th-century masterpieces at the Galleria dell’Accademia, we didn’t visit them this time. Nor did we visit the Doge’s Palace. Instead, we set out to discover the small churches, where we were able to enjoy fantastic surprises. The San Rocco (Saint Roch Church) with its Tintoretto paintings and the grand interiors of the Frari Church are just as much a part of Venice as the carved ceilings of the countless small churches or their ancient baptismal fonts.
The Doge's Palace
For centuries, Venice was ruled from the Doge's Palace, and it still dominates the city today. The elected doge, the prince of Venice, led his court in this building, which was constructed in the 14th century, and here he presided over the council, whose role was to prevent the doge from establishing absolute rule. The richly decorated council chambers on the second floor, with magnificent paintings on the walls and ceilings, include the outstanding work Paradise by Tintoretto.
The grand hall that houses the painting was designed for the 1,700 citizens who had voting rights in the council. The Ponte dei Sospiri, or the Bridge of Sighs, leads to the darker side of Venice's past, taking visitors to the prison and the underground cells.
St. Mark's Square
Although there were fewer tourists in Venice than in the summer, we still couldn’t enjoy the 175-meter-long St. Mark’s Square without interruption. Even though there were only 10-minute queues in front of the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica, we still felt that the crowd was too much. However, the basilica, reflecting the blue of the sky, captured our attention: by looking at the mixture of eastern and western influences and styles, one can understand the essence of Venice’s character.
The basilica, which continuously evolved between the 9th and 19th centuries, represents the pinnacle of the art of decorative cladding. The dark, mystical interior features mosaics covering a total area of 4,000 m². Most of the decoration was either looted during Venice’s golden age or, in some cases, was gifted. Among these, the four 4th-century gilded bronze doors above the main entrance deserve special mention.
Return trip by vaporetto
We sighed a big sigh facing the Bridge of Sighs, feeling that our strength was dwindling. We hopped on the popular water bus, the Vaporetto, and sailed along the S-shaped winding Canal Grande, admiring the most beautiful palaces of Venice. The double, pointed arches or interlocking Venetian windows evoked Gothic architecture, while the docks and warehouses at the base of the houses reminded us of the transportation and commercial practices of the time.
When we reached dry land again beside the train station, we were surprised to find that this time the shop windows were missing. The beautiful Venetian jewelry, Murano glass objects, lace, and Venetian masks somehow escaped our attention. Well – this time, without souvenirs, but with far more experiences, we returned to our accommodation!
