what a feelin'

The road to freedom

On Highway 1, which follows the California coastline, we find endless freedom and the true American dream.

The full Pacific Coast Highway Road Trip stretches from Seattle to San Diego, and driving the entire route—or even just part of it—is a bucket list item for many. The most popular section is the 450-mile (about 720 kilometers) coastal stretch between San Francisco and Los Angeles, where charming small towns reminiscent of the American dream, waterfalls, a prison island, scenic beaches, and amusement parks await. California’s coastline offers so many sights that it’s not worth rushing through in just two days. Let’s slow down, forget the everyday hustle, and enjoy the breathtaking landscape, the roar of waves crashing against the cliffs, and the countless hidden treasures waiting to be discovered.

We can leave the stress of everyday life behind as early as the flight itself if we book a seat in KLM’s Premium Comfort Class. Thanks to the more spacious seating, greater comfort, and enhanced services, we can already start immersing ourselves in thoughts of the adventures that await. After a long flight across the Atlantic Ocean and the American continent, it makes a big difference whether we arrive at our destination well-rested. In KLM’s Premium Comfort Class, the increased personal space and reclining, comfortable seats even allow us to sleep. A restful journey can be a great help in overcoming the multiple hour jet lag.

KLM’s Premium Comfort services include priority baggage handling and expedited security screening at several airports. Onboard, passengers can enjoy an expanded selection of high-quality food and beverages, as well as an amenity kit. Worry-free entertainment is ensured by a personal multimedia screen and noise-cancelling headphones. These thoughtful details turn flying into a true pleasure, making it easy to get in the mood for the unforgettable experiences awaiting us on the Pacific Coast Highway.

California is very different. Despite its Anglo-Saxon roots and cities founded by European immigrants, the westernmost state of the USA is nothing like Europe—and even compared to the East Coast, it has a distinctly unique vibe. The air, the colors, the light, the entire atmosphere—it’s all different. But really, it’s not worth trying to compare everything. Let’s just accept that there’s only one California. Enjoy it, and fully experience it. Let’s dive headfirst into the California state of mind!

Highway 1, also known as the Pacific Coast Highway, is one of the most iconic and scenic routes in the United States. It stretches 1,650 miles—or about 2,650 kilometers—along the jagged western coastline of the continent. The 720-kilometer stretch between San Francisco and Los Angeles is best experienced from north to south, offering the most breathtaking views of the ever-changing meeting point between ocean and land. It's worth planning your arrival and departure, as well as your car rental period and pick-up/drop-off locations, accordingly to make the most of the journey.

Around sixty years ago, San Francisco became the birthplace of the sexual revolution and a redefinition of the word “freedom.” The legendary Lombard Street, lined with hydrangeas and featured in countless TV shows and films over the decades, still carries the spirit of hippie romance and optimism. Every corner of San Francisco exudes the energy of a cosmopolitan, vibrantly exciting metropolis that isn’t just meant to be seen—it’s meant to be experienced.

Clinging to the side of a local cable car, the wind rushing past, we almost feel like we’re flying toward the harbor. Despite appearances, the city isn’t overwhelmingly large—many of its exciting sights can easily be explored on foot. You can stroll past the colorful Victorian houses known as the Painted Ladies as you make your way toward the waterfront neighborhood of Fisherman's Wharf. The locals are laid-back, friendly, and quick to help if you get stuck. For European travelers, this incredible openness can feel surprising and unfamiliar at first. They don’t want anything from you—they’re just friendly. Or at least, most of them are. However, in this otherwise open-minded city, there are now streets where walking is not advisable. Hundreds of drug-addicted homeless people live in cardboard shelters or tents, forming makeshift "zombie districts" that spill onto the sidewalks. These aren’t tucked away in rundown suburbs—they’ve taken over some of the city’s more popular central areas. Authorities often turn a blind eye, and residents tolerate the presence of these hundreds, even thousands, who are struggling on the margins of society. Thankfully, hotels usually inform guests about neighborhoods where safety concerns are higher than average and advise increased caution. They also warn against leaving any valuables in plain sight inside your rental car—anywhere in the city.

Surprisingly, in San Francisco and along the northern California coastline, mornings during the summer months are often foggy and damp. If we want to capture the San Francisco Bay or the Golden Gate Bridge in perfect weather, it's best to plan our trip for late September or October. One day, we might be greeted by the mystical sight of the Golden Gate shrouded in fog, but since the weather changes relatively quickly, the next day could offer bright sunshine, perfect for taking the photo of a lifetime. So, be sure to set aside a few days for Frisco!

In the bay, we find Alcatraz Island. The infamous former prison island is now a popular tourist destination, accessible by ferry from Pier 33. You can choose between daytime or nighttime guided tours. A bit further along, at the end of the famous Pier 39, the sounds of hundreds of sea lions snoozing in the sun—barking, grunting, and squabbling—can be heard from far away. Fortunately, their distinct scent is only noticeable up close, so it doesn’t bother visitors coming to enjoy the restaurants and entertainment at Pier 39. If you’re in the area, don’t miss out on trying some of the freshly caught Dungeness crab.

A 45-minute drive from San Francisco brings us to Half Moon Bay. This charming seaside village is the perfect getaway after the hustle and bustle of Frisco. It only takes half a day to enjoy: take a stroll along the main street or the coastal trail. The ocean isn’t exactly warm, but the view is unforgettable and endlessly captivating. Before heading further, grab a lobster roll at Sam's Chowder House, or if your budget allows, enjoy a round of golf at The Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay, with its stunning oceanfront course.

Another hour’s drive south, and we arrive in Santa Cruz. It’s worth spending some time at the Boardwalk, trying out the wooden roller coaster and sampling the local food offerings. Let’s embrace our inner Americans and enjoy some good eats. The portions at local restaurants are huge, and the prices are reasonable. Well, by this point, we’ll have to face the fact that it's best to put the calorie-counting diet on hold for the duration of our California trip… In Santa Cruz, make sure to try the churros, funnel cake, and some of the best ice cream in the area at Marianne’s. The main oceanfront road, West Cliff Drive, runs for five kilometers, offering breathtaking views of Monterey Bay, a paradise for surfers with its towering waves.

After our brief stop in Santa Cruz, it's just a short, comfortable drive to Monterey. This stretch of California is full of charming small towns, and it’s worth stopping here not only for the sights but also because Monterey offers reasonably priced accommodations. If you purchased the CityPASS in San Francisco, entry to the Monterey Bay Aquarium is included, though plan to spend at least half a day there. Be sure to watch the sunset at Carmel Beach Park along the ocean or stop at one of the viewpoints along the 17 Mile Drive. If you're craving unforgettable flavors, enjoy a clam chowder at Old Fisherman’s Wharf, or indulge in a classic American syrupy dessert at Monterey Crepe Company or Red's Donuts. Monterey is like a preserved piece of the American dream, an idyllic place of comfortable living and prosperity with its stunning oceanfront, well-kept parks, world-class golf courses, and top-notch hotels.

The century-old Old Monterey Inn is a piece of history, and spending the night in its beautifully preserved, vintage building, which evokes the golden age of American hospitality, is a unique experience in itself. If time allows, book a spot for a whale-watching tour the next day. Several species of the world’s largest mammals are regular visitors to Monterey Bay. In late summer and fall, you can spot blue and humpback whales, while in winter and early spring, gray whales migrate to the warmer California waters. Between December and February, newborn calves often approach the boats with their mothers, offering unforgettable experiences for whale watchers with their curious behavior.

After a one- or two-day stop, rested and recharged, we can continue our journey south toward Big Sur. Big Sur is a mountainous, rugged stretch of coastline, but it’s much more than that. Allow at least half a day to explore—it’s impossible not to stop often, with so many breathtaking sights and stunning oceanfront cliffs along the way. Be sure to check out McWay Falls at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, wiggle your toes in the purple(!) sand at Pfeiffer Beach, or simply enjoy the panoramic views and the harmony of nature.

As we head south, we're roughly halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles. On a hill, eight kilometers from the Pacific Ocean, we can catch a glimpse of the majestic Hearst Castle in San Simeon. The building might look familiar, even to those who have never heard of it. Seems like a contradiction? It’s not. Whether through photos taken here or as a movie set, most people have seen the castle. The main building was inspired by a 16th-century Spanish cathedral. Yes, it’s a bit out of place—like many things in America—but it’s here nonetheless, and people are curious about it. The monumental complex, built on a 16,000-hectare estate, is thankfully open to visitors, but be sure to book your tickets online in advance!

Orson Welles based the main character of one of the most famous films in cinematic history, Citizen Kane, on the media mogul William Hearst, who built the Hearst Castle. Founded in 1887, the Hearst empire is still operational today. Its media portfolio currently includes 35 television channels, 24 daily newspapers, 52 weekly magazines, numerous online platforms, and over 200 magazines worldwide. Last year, its revenue amounted to 12 billion dollars.

And while we’re in San Simeon, let’s take a detour to the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, where we can observe elephant seals lounging on the beach from the walking path and lookout. Heading further south, in a relatively small area, we can expect a lot of interesting sights. Be sure to visit the Montaña de Oro State Park's Bluff Trail, a 5.4-mile round-trip relatively flat path offering stunning ocean views, and during the fall foliage season, an incredible display of vibrant forest colors.

As a relaxing detour along the California coast, we can visit one of Paso Robles' more than 200 wineries for a pleasant gastronomic experience. California wines are now well-known worldwide, but a visit to one of the local wineries is far more than just a simple wine tasting. If we're undecided, let's sign up for a hop-on, hop-off wine tour. Yes, it’s exactly what it sounds like: a Cabernet Sauvignon tasting at one winery, then, if we're ready for a change, we hop on the bus to the next stop for some Pinot Noir. After the tastings, it’s a good idea to spend the night here. While those over 21 can drive with a blood alcohol level of up to 0.08%, if we don't adhere to the strictly enforced speed limits—typically 55 miles per hour—and get pulled over, they’ll check our alcohol levels as well. So, it’s safer to stay the night. The next morning, we absolutely have to try dune quad riding at Pismo Beach. This is the only place in California where we can legally drive on the oceanfront sand, whether in our own car, a rented quad, or a buggy! Just make sure our car can handle the deep sand, as getting stuck might lead to an expensive tow.

20 miles from here, an unmissable sight is the Vandenberg Space Force Base, which, after Cape Canaveral, is the second-largest rocket launch center in the United States. There are many unique things in America—they love their records—but this area, operated and controlled by the U.S. Air Force, is truly special. Hundreds of satellites have been launched from here, and countless secret rocket experiments have been conducted. The U.S. military's X-37B spaceplane landed here after 908 days in orbit, but to this day, it's unknown what exact experiments were carried out on the edge of space. Perhaps SpaceX astronauts might be closer to the secret, as they too launch from here into space. The space base is currently not open to the public, or only with special permission. However, the nearby town of Lompoc offers several observation points for those who want to watch the launches and the returning units land live.

A 20-minute drive from here awaits our next stop: Solvang. Though it’s a few miles off the coast, the detour is well worth it. This is a "real" Danish village, complete with a Little Mermaid fountain, historic windmills, and attractions that Americans believe to be very European. Essentially, they've built a European-style open-air museum, designed as they imagine the old continent. It's a bit kitschy, a bit quirky, but somehow it all comes together. Don’t take it too seriously, and you’ll have a great time. The aebleskiver—Danish pancake puffs—are absolutely divine!

After about a 45-minute drive, we arrive in Santa Barbara. The name sounds familiar, right? Is it worth stopping? Absolutely! The downtown area, with its whitewashed buildings and red-tiled roofs, offers a stunning view from the clock tower lookout.

We’re on the American Riviera: visitors from all over the country come to its beaches, pampered by the locals with Northern Italian dishes, gourmet cheeses, local wines, and handmade chocolates. Santa Barbara’s Mediterranean climate, picturesque beauty, and small-town charm have always attracted wealthy Americans. Accordingly, life here can be quite expensive, with real estate and services reflecting that. However, it is a stop that definitely shouldn't be missed on our journey as one of the most charming places. The Simpson House Inn, built in Victorian style in 1874, with its uniquely styled rooms, suites, and stunning garden, transports guests back to a glorious past. This historic boutique hotel not only captivates with its unique atmosphere but also wins hearts with its first-class gourmet dishes, creating memories that will remain among our dearest.

Santa Barbara is a particularly popular spot even by California standards, especially during the summer months, so be prepared for crowds! However, its vibe, restaurants, and hotels make it absolutely worth spending a night or two here.

If you’re looking for a little break from driving, a detour to Ventura and the Channel Islands is highly recommended. While not necessarily part of the classic California road trip, it’s the perfect spot to relax. The five islands accessible from Ventura don't allow cars, and biking is off-limits as well. You can either kayak around the relatively large area or hike, but one thing is certain—the view from Inspiration Point on Anacapa Island offers the most breathtaking panorama of the area. Watching the sun dip below the ocean horizon from here will be an unforgettable experience that stays with you for a lifetime.

After the short detour, we can continue our journey with renewed spirits towards Malibu! The trip from Ventura is less than an hour. Although Malibu's fame has slightly faded over time, it still attracts many visitors thanks to its stunningly wide beaches, celebrity villas (including the famous Getty Villa), horse ranches, waterfront restaurants, and numerous hiking trails. Paradise Cove is a great beachfront bar and restaurant where we can freely enjoy a drink on the sand. (In the U.S., drinking alcohol is generally prohibited on public property, including beaches.)

In Malibu, we find Geoffrey's, where the view is beautiful and the seafood is always fresh. After a bit of walking, we arrive at Point Dume Beach, where dolphins play, and here is the Malibu Pier, a paradise for surfers. Do you remember the movie Point Break with Patrick Swayze and Keanu Reeves? There’s a laid-back surfer-biker hangout in the film, supposedly in Malibu, where the seafood is always fresh. The funny thing is, this place really exists, and it's right here. It's called Neptune’s Net. The restaurant has appeared in several other films, and even the creators of GTA immortalized it in the fifth installment of the legendary video game (under the name "Hookie's").

It's just a fifty-minute drive from here to Los Angeles. If it was true for the previous stops on our journey that it's worth planning ahead and deciding what to see and try, then this will be even more important here. The second-largest city in the USA is full of magic, superlatives, luxury, and joy of life. Beverly Hills is the world of the rich and famous, with its upscale shopping street, Rodeo Drive. It was here that Julia Roberts spent a small fortune with Richard Gere’s credit card and transformed into Pretty Woman in her new, elegant clothes. On the western side of Los Angeles, the nearly five-kilometer-long Venice Beach is known for its trendy boutiques, elegant cafes, and colorful graffiti walls, where we can meet street artists and musicians from all over the world. One section of the boardwalk is Muscle Beach, an outdoor gym where even Schwarzenegger flexed his muscles in the 1970s. The city is a true American melting pot, with all the languages and peoples of the world. Each neighborhood has its own unique character, downtown, and vibe. For a long time, it could only be explored by car, but today, a serious metro system has been developed. Discovering the City of Angels is another long story...

By the end of our journey, we may find ourselves wondering: what is true about the America we think we know from the movies? It's often said that everyone has their own version of America, and everyone has to discover it for themselves. Americans are accepting, open, and happy to strike up a conversation with strangers from afar. After just a few minutes of chatting, it often turns out that our conversation partner's grandfather shared your heritage, or they know someone with similar roots, but in the end, it doesn't really matter: they will say, "Welcome!" And they’re right. America is ours too, and the stretch of the Pacific Coast Highway from San Francisco to Los Angeles is an exceptional opportunity to get a taste of it.

words by Zsolt Barta

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