Platform. Sleeping car. Conductor. Left luggage office and porter. Words and expressions from the heroic age of travel, from the “Great Railway Golden Book.”
Expressions that mean almost nothing to the younger generations, who were born into cars and travel by plane. The slow rattling along the rails has remained a memory, a nostalgia – and a thing of the past. But what if someone longs for exactly that? No problem! Travel to India, Peru, South Africa, or stay in old Europe. You can have a magnificent experience…
Although the legendary Orient Express still runs today, connecting Europe’s major cities, those seeking a truly exciting journey would do better to choose a luxury route in South America, Asia, or Africa. The few-day trips offer a taste of this special experience, but those who get hooked on nostalgic travel can even opt for a two-week, continent-crossing luxury adventure – costing tens of thousands of dollars.
Time warping luxury
According to train travel enthusiasts, the true home of luxury rail journeys today is South Africa. This is where the special Rovos Rail trains run, offering a touch of bygone elegance. The carriages of brass, velvet, and ebony are pulled by a real steam locomotive – at least wherever that’s still possible.
Even the arrival at the station is far from ordinary. At Durban’s main station, friendly hostesses and uniformed porters greet passengers with ice-cold champagne. The staff naturally takes care of the luggage, allowing travelers to easily settle into their assigned seats. On the train, passengers can choose from three types of suites: the Pullman Gold is the humblest, with fold-down beds; the next level up offers a proper double bed and shower; while the top-tier Royal Suite is even more spacious, with every imaginable comfort – including a classic freestanding bathtub. On the three-day journey, everything is included, from multi-course meals and champagne to Cuban cigars, all at the travelers’ disposal.
And this luxury is very easy to get used to! …as is the dislocated sense of time. On the train, there are no clocks, no phones, and of course no computers. Time – or more precisely, the start of meals – is gently announced by the pleasant sound of a xylophone, played by the attendant as they walk past the cabins.
Exploring our rolling suite is an adventure in itself – the wardrobe holds not only the robe, slippers, and toiletry set one would expect in a five-star hotel, but also a pair of tightly fitting goggles. Their purpose is delightfully simple: so that the dear passenger can still peek out of the train window even when the train is being pulled by a smoky steam engine…
The carriages are air-conditioned, and the attendants – about a dozen of them for scarcely more than fifteen guests per car – are constantly on standby to ensure the passengers’ comfort.
The luxury of bygone times
The dining car feels like a scene brought to life from an Agatha Christie novel. Waiters in tuxedos serve the guests; champagne bottles pop open with a soft hiss; gentle music plays in the background. The ladies wear evening gowns, the gentlemen tuxedos or suits. Even the wine list is impressive – it offers selections from the finest South African wineries. As an aperitif, one can discover Pongrácz, a sparkling wine made in the famous Méthode Cap Classique style from the Stellenbosch wine region. ( The Hungarian-sounding name is no coincidence: the winery was founded by Count Dezső Pongrácz, a Hungarian émigré who chose the African continent as his new home after being released from a Siberian labor camp.)
The dining car is the center of social life, where masterpieces of French and local cuisine are served alongside carefully selected wines. Everyone has their own table – not much of a feat, since barely a dozen guests “inhabit” the train – yet no one minds if others join them for a meal or two. After the fine dishes, it’s off to the club car, furnished with comfortable leather armchairs, newspapers, and books – a place where travelers pass the time smoking cigars, chatting, and sipping cognac. And what does one do during the day? Well, they read, converse, and admire the scenery from the open observation car at the end of the train. To help them endure the heat, the steward serves fresh, damp towels and cool drinks every fifteen minutes – even there!
On the optional excursions during the journey, travelers can also discover the awe-inspiring natural and cultural treasures of the ancient continent. In the morning – signaled by the now-familiar sound of the xylophone – a hearty breakfast awaits, followed by a visit to a national park in Swaziland. The next day brings an excursion to the continent’s most beautiful and perhaps richest park, Kruger National Park. No one minds the early wake-up call before sunrise, as predators are active only at dawn – that’s when there’s a chance to observe them, of course from a respectful distance and from a jeep. Later, in the scorching heat, a safari wouldn’t make much sense anyway.
In fact, the journey itself is the goal of the trip. To speed through the breathtaking African mountains and valleys. To chat with fellow travelers. To look around and enjoy some wine.
To reflect and look back on the past – when this was the only way to travel, available solely to the privileged. Nothing disturbs the nostalgic atmosphere: there is no TV or radio, no one hunched over a laptop, no one making phone calls – the sacred passion of train travel touches everyone.
In the evening, the past literally comes alive: in the lavishly appointed dining car, elegant waiters serve a candlelit dinner to guests dressed in suits and evening gowns. The dozens of renowned South African wines surpass one another, making it well worth taking advantage of this unparalleled tasting opportunity. Likewise, the chef’s skills can be thoroughly tested, as the menu features dishes from multiple international cuisines – and guests can freely choose any combination and portion size.
Only Poirot is missing
Almost everyone indulges on this time-traveling journey with such indulgence, and even special requests – like an omelet with bacon at four in the afternoon – cause no surprise. We can be sure that within a few minutes, our custom-made snack will be steaming before us. The attentiveness of the staff is unparalleled – every day they ask on a small questionnaire what to stock in the minibar, which shirts to wash and iron, what temperature to set the air conditioning to, and which fruits to include in the nighttime feast basket.
The Johannesburg Rovos terminal holds even more curiosities: the railway company welcomes travelers in an old, turn-of-the-century station building, full of authentic colonial atmosphere – with leather armchairs, palm trees, food, and drinks. Only Hercule Poirot is missing from among the drivers and engineers waiting for the train. In the waiting room, guests can enjoy fragrant Ceylon – that is, Sri Lankan – tea and English biscuits while the porters load their suitcases into the taxi. The farewell “delegation” is often personally led by Rohan Vos, the owner of the railway company, who is happy to shake hands with his passengers.
